Q – I need to purchase the trays and the the tray rack for my Pelton Crane Magnaclave. Where can I get them? It seems that no one has them anymore.

A – The trays and the tray rack are no longer available from Pelton and Crane. however, we found a substitute for you.  Click HERE for further details

Q: I have a Napco sterilizer that worked great for many years. Lately, however, it has started to give me problems, and I am not sure if I should try to repair it, or buy a new one.

A: The Napco sterilizer has been out of production for several years now, and there are no plans to start manufacturing it again soon. Click HERE for the manual in case you need to purchase parts for it.

Q: Is there a Board of Health code in my state (or federal) which requires us to have a printout of every cycle?

A: Yes, several states require you to have a printer and show every cycle time the sterilizer ran, the date, temperature, etc. Click HERE to learn more.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: I bought this steamer 7 months ago, and now the gasket rubber has been totally destroyed. Should we need to replace it?

A: What are you cleaning the gasket with? And are you leaving the door a little open when not in use? These problems can cause the gasket rubber to be destroyed. Replace the gasket as soon as possible. Click HERE to buy it immediately.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: We have the Midmark / Ritter M9 Sterilizer. It makes a whining noise when turned on. Leaking water. What can I do?

A: The door & dam gaskets needs to be replaced. Click HERE for price and availability

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: I own several Cox sterilizers, and is there any dry heat sterilizer that is bigger than the Cox?

A: * A High Velocity Hot Air (HVHA) Sterilizer* is bigger than a Cox sterilizer. It can hold up to six trays of instruments doing complete cycles of unwrapped instruments in six minutes, and bagged instruments in 12 minutes.

To review this item, click the link HERE

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q. I have a question about our sterilmatic autoclave. This is the third one I’ve used and this one has a strange characteristic. We can’t run the autoclave twice in a row without draining and refilling the chamber. Whenever we simply add water to it after a previous run it heats up, comes up to pressure and then the low level water light comes on and stops the unit. We have let it come back to room pressure, drain it and refill with cold water. Any idea what might cause this and fix the problem? Should we be able to do multiple runs once the water is hot and just top off the level in the chamber?

A: It sounds like the low water cut off is getting weak. Is there scale build up in the bottom of the unit? You are supposed to ALWAYS put cold water in unit after every run. It sounds like you have let it run dry a couple of times, weakening the safety. Could it be?

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: My sterilizer doesn’t display or printout, but the fan on back is working. What does this mean?

A: In this case, the fuse protecting the power supply is blown. Refer to your user manual and replace the fuse as instructed.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

There are multiple reasons why your cycle could have halted.

1. If the display reads:” The Door Has Opened, Sterilization Cycle Aborted, Press Stop To Continue,” then that means the door switch opened after the initiation of a cycle. To fix it, press the STOP button and allow the chamber to depressurize and cool, drain the chamber, and restart the cycle, ensuring that the door is securely closed this time.

2. If the display reads: “Cycle Halted Due To Heatup Exceeding Maximum Heatup Time, Push Stop To Reset,” this means the temperature in the vessel has not reached the specified set point within 115 minutes. To fix it, make sure your water is filled at the beginning of the cycle, and ensure that there are no leaks or cracks from the solenoid valves or door gasket.

3. If the display reads:”Cycle Failed Due to Over Temperature Condition, Press Stop. To Continue,” the temperature inside the chamber has exceeded more than 5C above the set point. Retry by pressing the STOP button, allowing chamber to depressurize and cool, draining the chamber, and restarting the cycle.

4. If the display reads:”Cycle Failed Due To Low Temperature Condition, Press Stop To Continue,” it means that the temperature inside the chamber dropped more than 1C below the set point in a liquid cycle, or more than 5C in any other cycle. To fix it, follow the same procedure as #3.

5. If the display reads:”Drying Cycle Aborted Due To Closure Of Door, Open Door To Continue,” in means the door switch closed during the drying phase. In this case, open the door. The drying cycle will continue automatically from the point at which it quit.

Thank you -

~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

 

Q: After disassembling and cleaning the valve, how do I reset it back to the correct exhaust value?

A: Most of the time after you disassemble and clean the valve, you need to replace the 3 small sealing O rings inside the valve. You may need to replace some other parts depending on the condition of the exhausting valve. Please visit sterilizers.com for more information.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

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